Spaghetti with Procida lemon, the traditional recipe
PER 4 AMICI
500g (1lb 1½oz) spaghetti
2 Procida lemons (if these are unavailable, you can use other varieties, provided they’re unwaxed)
1 garlic clove
Chilli flakes QB
Mint, finely chopped QB
Basil (optional)
Extra-virgin olive oil QB
Salt QB
Pepper QB
1Finely dice 1 of the lemons and transfer to a pestle and mortar. Bash the lemon along with the garlic, chilli flakes, olive oil, salt and pepper. When the ingredients are thoroughly mashed together, transfer the mixture to a frying pan and sauté gently in olive oil with the juice of the other lemon.
2Add the spaghetti to a saucepan of salted boiling water, but remove and drain the pasta a few minutes before it is completely cooked (reserve some of the cooking water – it will come in handy in the next step).
3Put the spaghetti into the lemon mixture in the frying pan, pour in some of the reserved cooking water and stir (‘mantecare’, as they say in Italian). A few seconds before turning off the heat, sprinkle on the mint and basil leaves (if using).
4Serve the spaghetti in pasta bowls, adding a drizzle of olive oil to each – and enjoy! It tastes like a summer holiday, right?
A MINUTE TO SPARE?
Here are the first names of some of our Italian chefs so you can choose 1 or 2 of them to bestow on your future children. We don’t want to pressure you, but if you do pick one, your child will be the coolest kid on earth: Virginia, Monia, Stefania, Brenda, Lucia, Andrea, Luca, Alberto, Leonardo, Mattia.
◁ BIG VEGGIE CARBONARA
Veggie spaghetti alla carbonara with fried courgettes, for friends of the earth
PER 4 AMICI
500g (1lb 1½oz) spaghetti
4 beautiful courgettes
6 egg yolks
250g (9oz) pecorino, grated (you’ll maybe have some left over for the next day)
Sunflower oil QB
Pepper, in abundance (carbonara comes from carbone, or ‘coal’, so don’t skimp)
1Use a mandolin to cut the courgettes into 3mm (1/10 in) thick round slices. Sauté them in piping-hot sunflower oil in a frying pan until they start to turn golden brown, then set aside.
2Place the spaghetti into a saucepan of slightly salted boiling water for as long as required. (Be aware that you have to taste pasta to know whether or not it’s cooked.) Stir the spaghetti occasionally (we're watching you!). While the spaghetti is cooking, quickly put the egg yolks, pecorino and pepper into a bowl large enough to hold the entire dish. Once the spaghetti is cooked to your satisfaction, remove it from the heat and drain.
3Transfer the cooked spaghetti straight to the bowl and mix thoroughly. Grind some more pepper on top, add the fried courgettes and place the bowl in the centre of the table.
4Stir and serve. Don’t dawdle – this dish needs to be eaten hot. And, above all, leave any cream out of sight, well away from this recipe and your worktop, just in case an Italian happens to pass by.
A MINUTE TO SPARE?
Arrange some dried flowers and nuts (almonds, walnuts, etc.) in a strip along the entire length of the table. It will look pretty, and the nuts can even be nibbled away at the end of the meal. If you don’t have any flowers or nuts to hand, then opt for some crisps. After all, is there any real difference between a rose petal and a fried potato petal? It’s the thought that counts.
◁ SPAGHETTI ALL’ ARRABBIATA
Spaghetti with tomato sauce, garlic and fresh chilli: for thrill-seekers.
PER 4 AMICI
500g (1lb 1½oz) spaghetti (thick dried spaghetti, as these will suck up the sauce)
1 tin of tomatoes (or 400ml/1⅔ cups of the superb tomato sauce for which there’s a recipe on this page)
1 garlic clove, crushed
2 fresh chillies, finely chopped
Black olives QB (optional)
Capers QB (optional)
Extra-virgin olive oil QB
Salt QB
1Drizzle some olive oil into a saucepan and sauté the finely chopped chillies, tomatoes (or tomato sauce) and garlic clove and simmer for 20 minutes.
2Meanwhile, cook the spaghetti in a saucepan of boiling water until perfectly al dente. Drain the spaghetti and add to the pan with the other ingredients. If a little cooking water goes in as well, that’s all to the good. The sauce, the sauce, my kingdom for a sauce!
3An optional addition that looks great and tastes great: add a few black olives and capers to the sauce – this will give you the levelled up Pokémon version, the puttanesca!
Gather your lovers, best friends, foes and family round the table – it’s time to put your differences aside, and get stuck in.
A MINUTE TO SPARE?
Put a slice of bread on side plates and a small bowl of extra-virgin olive oil in the middle of the table. It’ll make the ‘foodies’ happy, and will also cool down the flames for any guest who finds the chilli too hot to handle.
THE 8 ITALIAN FILMS YOU NEED TO SEE AT LEAST ONCE IN YOUR LIFE
1LA GRANDE BELLEZZA 142 minutes of partying. A sublime film about Jep Gambardella, a cynical socialite, who, after spending most of his life surrounded by glitz and glamour, begins to question his existence and his values. The introspective meditations of a 65-year-old man, as he wanders through the heart of Rome, are put under the microscope of the (very) brilliant director Paolo Sorrentino. A special mention for the scene in which Gambardella discovers the photography exhibition under the loggia of the Villa Giulia.
2CINEMA PARADISO A veritable hymn to life telling the story of a film-crazy young boy who is taken under the wing of a projectionist (played by Philippe Noiret) – and who grows up to be the film’s prodigious director, Giuseppe Tornatore. A meta-story that reveals the birth of the director’s passion for cinema. We particularly like the scene of the improvised screening in the village square.
3LA VITA È BELLA Probably the finest depiction ever of the love between a man, his wife and their son. We do not have the words to describe this masterpiece, other than to say ‘buongiorno principessa’. Be sure to have a packet of tissues handy when you watch it. An ode to life that is still unsurpassed.
4È STATA LA MANO DI DIO A delicate, personal film from Sorrentino showing the adolescence of Fabietto and the arrival of the great Maradona in Napoli – an event that would bring hope and pride to an entire population, starting with Fabietto himself. A special mention for the last scene, in which ‘non ti disunire Fabio’ can be heard in the most beautiful spot in the entire city of Naples.
5IL POSTINO A celebration of poetry in which Pablo Neruda transmits his passion for literature to the local postman on Procida, the island off Naples where he was living in exile. It is impossible to forget the most famous bicycle in history (still on display in Procida). Massimo Troisi, who played the postman, unfortunately didn't live long enough to enjoy the huge success of the film, which he completed against all the odds while suffering from heart disease.
6IL CAIMANO A political satire loaded with metaphors that explores the story of Silvio Berlusconi without ever mentioning him by name. A biting portrait of Italian society by the master director Nanni Moretti, with the actor Silvio Orlando as his avatar.
7LA DOLCE VITA If there is one film that you really must see in your lifetime, this is probably it. Fellini’s masterpiece made the Trevi Fountain the most famous in the world. We’re obviously referring to the magical scene with Anita Ekberg and Marcello Mastroianni.
8AMICI MIEI The annual get-together of a bunch of friends, directed by Mario Monicelli, who brings to life the memorable pranks of these 5 men. Special mentions for the supercazzola scene with the policeman and the train scene, where the farewells take an unexpected turn. You are advised to brush up your Italian in order to grasp all the film’s subtilties and appreciate just how funny it is.
◁ RIGATONI ALLA VODKA ANNI 80
Rigatoni with tomato and vodka sauce: enjoy in moderation
PER 4 AMICI
500g (1lb 1½oz) rigatoni
400ml (1¾ cups) tomato sauce (seehere for the best tomato sauce recipe in the world)
200ml (generous ¾ cup) single cream
20g (¾oz) butter
1 shallot (not too small), chopped
½ glass vodka
½ bunch chives, chopped (optional)
Salt QB
Pepper QB
1Cook the rigatoni in a saucepan of salted boiling water until al dente. In another saucepan, brown the shallot in the melted butter.
2Deglaze the shallot pan with the vodka. Whilst you wait, pour yourself a shot. Cin cin! Add the tomato sauce and cream, and simmer over a low heat for 5 minutes.
3Roughly drain the pasta (putting aside a little of the cooking water) and add it to the saucepan with the sauce. If the sauce is too thick, you can add half a ladleful of the cooking water. Grind over a little pepper and, if you’re fond of greenery, sprinkle over some chives, too – this is truly a disco recipe!
A MINUTE TO SPARE?
Look up the Instagram account @pastagrannies. It’s exactly what it says on the tin: pasta plus grandmothers.
10 RULES FOR MAKING AN AUTHENTICALLY ITALIAN CARBONARA
1Opt for guanciale. The guanciale needs to be cut into strips then put into a frying pan to brown and crisp (no need to add any oil or other fat). Remember that the word guanciale comes from the Italian guancia, which means ‘cheek’. Yes, this tasty morsel we love to use in our cooking is in fact pig’s cheek or jowl (maiale in Italian) that has been salted then dried. This makes it very different from both pork loin and pancetta (taken from the fatty part of the belly).
2Eggs. Organic and local whenever possible. The yolks play the starring role here, resulting in a creamier, lighter texture. Our chef Giacomo recommends using 1 whole egg and 3 yolks in a dish for 4 people.
3Carbonara means pecorino! Forget about Parmigiano Reggiano or any other cheese that doesn’t answer to the name Pecorino Romano. If you really want excellence, try to buy DOP.
4Black pepper, the trump card. There’s no Bonnie without Clyde, and no carbonara without black pepper.
5Watch out for scrambling! To prevent the eggs overcooking, you have to whip them thoroughly with the pecorino in a bowl, away from the stove. When the pasta is al dente, drain it and mix everything together – well away from the hob.
6No cream, ever, ever! It is the eggs and the pecorino that make this dish creamy. If you want an even more luscious dish, add 1 tbsp of the cooking water from the pasta.
7Spaghetti, tonnarelli, rigatoni: tradition has it that long pasta is best suited to a carbonara.
8No onions. Even though we like this addition, carbonara purists insist that this is no place for onions.
9Chilli does not appear on the guest list. Black pepper should be the only standout taste. There is no room for interlopers.
10Pasta al dente: pasta scotta (overcooked pasta) is always unforgivable, but it’s doubly so in a carbonara.
◁ RISOTTO AL FUNGHI
The mushroom risotto that will win everyone over
PER 4 AMICI
420g (2 cups) Carnaroli, Vialone Nano, Roma or Baldo rice (avoid precooked rice)
140g (5oz) butter
120g (4oz) Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
1 shallot, chopped
500g (1lb 1½oz) button mushrooms
50ml (3½ tbsp) white wine
800ml (3½ cups) vegetable stock
1 bunch thyme
Salt QB
Pepper QB
1Quarter the mushrooms and sauté them in a frying pan with 20g (¾oz) of butter and the thyme until golden brown. Set aside, reserving a small handful as your garnish.
2Soften the shallot in a deep saucepan or casserole dish with 20g (¾oz) of butter then add the rice. Toast the rice for 2–3 minutes, stirring continuously (stay focused, nobody likes burned rice).
3Deglaze the pan with the white wine. Once the wine has evaporated, add half the sautéed mushrooms and a pinch of salt. Pour in 200ml (¾ cup) of vegetable stock and stir. Repeat this at least 3 times, whenever the liquid evaporates. The rice should cook in the saucepan for around 15–17 minutes, without ever burning or drying. Continue stirring throughout, otherwise you'll end up wasting good wine without any risotto. Take the remaining sautéed mushrooms, blend them with a little stock (or, in its absence, hot water) to obtain a smooth purée.
4Taste the rice and, if it’s ready, switch off the heat, add the Parmigiano, the mushroom purée and the remaining butter. Cover the risotto with a tea towel for 1½ minutes.
5The big moment has come: remove the tea towel and stir the rice. Plate up the risotto, adding a quartered mushroom to each serving as a garnish. If you truly love your guests, or just want to show off, now’s the time to complete the garnish with some shaved truffle. After all, they deserve it!
A MINUTE TO SPARE?
Go and brush your teeth or change your shirt. Anything to stop fretting about how the risotto will turn out.
◁ GIRELLE WOODS
Girelle stuffed with slow-cooked rabbitt
PER 4 AMICI
500g (1lb 1½oz) fresh egg pasta (see here to find out how to make this at home)
150g (½ cup) ricotta (see here . . . no, only joking!)
100g (3½oz) Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
50g (1¾oz) butter
1 red onion
20g (scant 2 tbsp) Taggiasche olives
20g (2½ tbsp) pine nuts, toasted
Zest of 1 lemon
1 bunch marjoram
1 bunch oregano
Salt QB
Pepper QB
1Prepare the stuffing the day before
Shred the cooked rabbit meat and mix it with the ricotta, the grated Parmigiano and half the lemon zest. Chop the red onion and gently brown it in a saucepan in 10g (2 tsp) of butter. Finely chop half the marjoram and half the oregano. Add the onion and the herbs to the rest of the stuffing, along with salt and pepper. Combine all the ingredients thoroughly, then set aside.
2Make the girelle
Roll out the pasta dough so that it is 2mm (1/10in) thick. Cut into 4 equal strips at least 50cm (20in) long and 13cm (5½in) wide. Put the stuffing into a piping bag (or a small freezer bag with a corner cut off) and squeeze out a sausage 45cm long (18in) and 3cm (1in) wide onto one of the strips. Take care to leave the last 2–3cm (¾–1in) of all the edges of the pasta free from stuffing so that you can do the following manoeuvres successfully. Join the sides of the pasta strip together to enclose the stuffing. Cut off any excess pasta from the ends (remembering to leave a space of around 2cm (¾in) between the stuffing and the edge of the pasta) and from the sides, and then seal the 2 ends tightly. (Most importantly, keep any leftover pasta to make a quick dish of wonderful tagliatelle for lunch the following day.) Wind one girella around itself on the worktop, forming a snail shape. Repeat this with all the strips.
3When your guests are at their places around the table, immerse the 4 girelle in hot, bubbling salted water for 2 minutes. Take them out of the water, drain and transfer them straight to your plates. Set aside. You’re nearly there – don’t drop the pace now! Over a high heat, melt the remaining butter in a saucepan and sauté the olives, pine nuts and oregano, along with a few sprigs of marjoram, for 2 minutes. When this mixture starts to turn golden brown, pour some of it over each girella in turn. Si mangia! After receiving applause from all your guests, obviously.
A MINUTE TO SPARE?
You can always uncork a bottle of good red wine to let it breathe for a while. Pour yourself a small glass, as you thoroughly deserve it – Cin-cin!
◁ RISOTTO ALLA MONZESE
Risotto with sausage and red wine
PER 4 AMICI
420g (2 cups) carnaroli, Vialone Nano, Roma or Baldo rice (avoid precooked rice)
140g (5oz) butter
120g (4oz) Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
1 shallot, chopped
250g (9oz) sausage
50ml (3½ tbsp) red wine
800ml (3½ cups) vegetable stock
Salt QB
Pepper QB
1Squeeze out the sausage meat and sauté until it is golden brown in a deep saucepan or casserole dish. Add the shallot and soften.
2In the same saucepan, toast the rice for 2–3 minutes, stirring continuously (don't get distracted, otherwise the rice will burn). Deglaze with the red wine. Once the wine has evaporated, add a pinch of salt and a little pepper.
3Pour in 200ml (¾ cup) of vegetable stock and stir. As soon as the water has evaporated, pour in another batch. Repeat this at least 2 more times. The rice should take 15–17 minutes to cook. Keep stirring it all the time. It mustn’t burn or dry up. Stay on the alert for the sake of your risotto – it’s well worth the effort.
4Taste the rice. Once it’s ready, remove it from the heat, add the butter and sprinkle on the Parmigiano. Cover the risotto with a tea towel. After 1½ minutes, stir the rice vigorously. Serve the risotto on individual plates, e basta.
A MINUTE TO SPARE?
The reason why Italians are so expressive with their hands can be traced back to the country’s repeated historical invasions. As the changes in language were difficult to assimilate to, people grew used to ‘speaking’ with their hands to make themselves understood. Even today, there are still over 35 different dialects spoken across The Boot. So, here’s a trick, the best way to make an Italian shut up is by tying their hands!
◁ GNOCCHI AI 4 FORMAGGI
Melting gnocchi with Parmigiano, gorgonzola, ricotta and mozzarella.
PER 4 AMICI
For the gnocchi
1kg (2¼lb) good-quality potatoes
1 egg
350g (2½ cups) bread flour (Type 1 Italian flour)
Salt QB
For the seasoning
400g (1¾ cups) Parmigiano fondue (see here for how to make your own)
200g (7oz) gorgonzola
100g (3½oz) fior di latte (or mozzarella)
150g (½ cup) ricotta
150g (5½oz) Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
1The gnocchi
Wash the potatoes, with their skins still intact. Put salted cold water in a saucepan, bring it to the boil and then add the potatoes, simmering them until they are ready (do not allow the water to come to the boil while they are cooking, as their skins could split). Drain the potatoes, then peel and mash them till smooth (don’t swear! And avoid using a fork). Add the egg and flour, and knead the resulting dough by hand. Be fast as lightning here, so the potatoes don’t cool down.
2Roll this dough into sausages about 40cm (16in) long and 2cm (¾in) in diameter. Use a knife to cut them into gnocchi around 2cm (¾in) long. Put them in salted boiling water and cook until they rise to the surface. Drain them with a skimmer (if you don’t have one, use a sieve – just get ’em outta the water) and transfer them to a bowl.
3Now for the pièce de résistance
Add all the cheeses and the Parmigiano fondue to the gnocchi and mix. Transfer this mixture to an ovenproof dish or casserole and put under a medium grill for 15 minutes. Serve the gnocchi on a large plate, or straight from the dish. Enjoy – this dish is an absolute stunner.
A MINUTE TO SPARE?
Did you know that forks almost became obsolete after the fall of the Roman Empire? Legend has it that this piece of cutlery is now used practically all over the world only because Italians clung on to it to eat their pasta. You’re welcome.
◁ RISOTTO ALLO ZAFFERANO
Risotto milanese with saffron
PER 4 AMICI
420g (2 cups) Carnaroli, Vialone Nano, Roma or Baldo rice (avoid precooked rice)
140g (5oz) butter
120g (4oz) Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
1 shallot, chopped
50ml (3½ tbsp) white wine
800ml (3½ cups) vegetable stock
1g saffron strands
Salt QB
Pepper QB
For the gremolata
1 bunch sage
Rosemary, finely chopped QB
Zest of 1 lemon
1Soften the shallot in 20g (¾oz) of butter in a saucepan. In the same saucepan, toast the rice for 2–3 minutes, stirring continuously (no skimping on this, otherwise the rice could burn). Deglaze with the white wine. Once this has evaporated, add the saffron, a pinch of salt and a little freshly ground pepper.
2Pour in 200ml (¾ cup) of vegetable stock and stir. As soon as the liquid has evaporated, pour in another batch. Repeat this at least 2 more times. The rice should take around 15–17 minutes to cook, without ever burning or running out of liquid. Keep stirring all the time. Focus all your attention on the risotto – it will be worth the effort. Taste it and, once it’s ready, add the Parmigiano and rest of the butter and then cover the risotto with a tea towel for 1½ minutes.
3Meanwhile, stir the chopped rosemary with some freshly chopped sage leaves (not the stalks, as they’re bitter) and mix them with the lemon zest. Uncover the risotto and stir vigorously. Serve the risotto on plates and delicately dress each with some of the gremolata. Now, what are you waiting for? Tuck in!
A MINUTE TO SPARE?
What should you do with any leftover rice? Store it then sauté it in a frying pan with some butter a few days later. Enrico’s grandmother used to cook rice then reserve it expressly for this purpose. Try it out – you’ll thank us for the tip.
◁ GIANT RAVIOLO CARBONARA
XL carbonara ravioli with an oozing centre
PER 4 AMICI
400g (14oz) fresh pasta(see how to make this really well)
4 egg yolks (keep the egg whites in the fridge and make some cute meringues using the recipe on this page)
80g (3oz) pecorino, grated
20g (¾oz) Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
150g (½ cup) ricotta
200g (7oz) guanciale
Black pepper QB
1Prepare the stuffing
Mix the ricotta with 60g (2oz) of pecorino and 10g (⅓oz) of Parmigiano. Add a generous flurry of freshly ground pepper (this changes everything). Cut half the guanciale into matchsticks (listarelle in Italian) and brown them in a saucepan. Set aside, still in the pan. Once the guanciale matchsticks have cooled, add them to the cheese mixture.
2Prepare the ravioli
Roll out the pasta dough to obtain a sheet 2mm (1/10in) thick. Cut out 8 discs 18cm (7in) in diameter (you can use a bowl or a large mug, or even your kid’s pencil pot, provided it’s circular and the right size). Add a spoonful of stuffing to half the discs, about 7–8cm (2¾ –3in) in diameter.
3Sprinkle 10g (⅓oz) of Parmigiano on top, then add an egg yolk to the centre of the stuffing. Close the raviolo with another disc of pasta. Squeeze the edges together to ensure that they are closed tight. Put the raviolo in a saucepan of salted boiling water for 2½ minutes maximum (the egg yolk should be runny). Drain very very carefully in a sieve or with a slotted spoon, as it’s a fragile little thing. Repeat this for the remaining 3 ravioli.
4Looks are everything here
If you want to be a top chef, try to avoid any cooking water going on the plates. Place the sieve on a tea towel before transferring the raviolo to a plate. Slice and brown the remaining guanciale in a frying pan and spoon it straight onto the ravioli, along with its fat (waste not, want not!). Sprinkle on the remaining 20g (¾oz) grated pecorino. If you're feeling fancy, you can grind some more fresh pepper on top – and there you are, a tavola!
A MINUTE TO SPARE?
Check your phone, you’ve probably left someone on ‘read’ and they’re waiting for your reply.
◁ TAGLIATELLE AI FUNGHI PORCINI
Tagliatelle with 3 mushrooms: porcini, oyster and button mushrooms
PER 4 AMICI
420g (1lb) fresh pasta(you could even make this yourself by following our recipe)
300g (11oz) ceps or porcini
100g (3½oz) button mushrooms
50g (1¾oz) oyster mushrooms
1 garlic clove, crushed
60g (2oz) butter
½ bunch thyme
4 tsp extra-virgin olive oil
Salt QB
Pepper QB
1Let’s start by all agreeing that porcini are the best mushrooms in the world. But it is also important to take advantage of Mother Nature’s bounty and try more flavours, whilst being easy on the wallet. So we have no qualms with mixing it up with different types of shrooms. Variety is the spice of life.
2Roll out the pasta dough to obtain a sheet 3mm (1/10 in) thick (this thickness is vital for texture and soaking up all the sauce). Fold it over 5 times (always in the same direction) then slice it horizontally with a knife in 1cm (⅓in) strips to obtain tagliatelle. Set aside.
3Wipe off any dirt from the mushrooms with a damp cloth (don’t wash them under a tap – they hate that!). Cut them into uniform slices. Heat the butter, thyme and garlic clove in a saucepan. Add the mushrooms and brown them over a high heat. Once they are cooked, remove the garlic.
4Cook the tagliatelle in salted boiling water for 2–3 minutes (no more). Drain and add straight to the saucepan with the mushrooms and mix in the olive oil. Serve in pretty pasta bowls.
A MINUTE TO SPARE?
Our chef Albi absolutely adores Parmigiano. Accordingly, he uses it at every stage: in the recipe itself, as a seasoning, and when he plates. We’ll let you decide whether you want to follow his example – you're the boss.
◁ SPAGHETTI VONGOLE E BOTTARGA
Spaghetti with clams and bottarga
PER 4 AMICI
600g (1lb 5¼oz) spaghetti
½ kg (1lb 1½oz) clams (be sure to ask your fishmonger to clean them)
50g (1¾oz) bottarga
1 glass white wine (the first half goes into the pan, the second is for you to drink)
1 clove of garlic, crushed ('in camicia', as they say in Italy. For the uninitiated, this means 'with its shirt on', as the garlic clove is crushed with the skin still intact)
1 bunch of parsley (optional)
Extra-virgin olive oil QB
1Use a frying pan to sauté the garlic and clams in the oil for 4 minutes. Then add ½ glass of white wine.
2If using the parsley, finely chop the stems (NB reserving the leaves), add and then cover the saucepan until the clams open. Take extra care to discard any clams that have not opened; we don’t want you getting sick.
3Put the spaghetti in a saucepan of salted boiling water until it is cooked al dente, then drain it roughly and add it to the clams. If some of the cooking water falls in along with the pasta, even better. Bravo, this will be perfetto! If you wish, add a few finely chopped parsley leaves, and then divide the pasta between 4 bowls. Just before serving, grate generous amounts of bottarga over each bowl, using a cheese grater. Enjoy amici!
A MINUTE TO SPARE?
We suggest that you avoid putting any Parmigiano on the table. Mixing fish and Parmigiano has been a sin for Italians ever since Hippocrates published his findings on nutrition in ancient times. He claimed that the digestion of cheese is very slow and could upset the digestion of any fish in the stomach. This notion has remained firmly lodged in the heads of Italians to this day. So, please, don’t add anything. Just sit down and read a page of the dictionary.
◁ THE GREAT LASAGNA
Or how to become your child’s favourite.
PER 6 AMICI, AT LEAST
(although you can always invite fewer people and eat more)
600g (1lb 5¼oz) fresh pasta (or sheets of dry pasta, if you don't have time to prepare the fresh version)
800g (generous 3 cups) beef ragù (see our recipe on this page)
250g (9oz) Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
70g (2½oz) butter
1 litre (1qt) cold whole milk
70g (½ cup) plain flour
1 pinch grated nutmeg
Salt QB
Pepper QB
1Melt the butter in a saucepan. Add the flour and stir with a wooden spoon until you obtain a smooth paste. Leave to cook for 1 minute.
2Without taking the pan off the heat, add the milk then whisk to eliminate any lumps. Add the nutmeg and allow the mixture to simmer for 3–4 minutes. Add salt and pepper then set the béchamel aside at room temperature, ready to be used later. Consult here to find out how to make the ragù. Is it ready? Then, back to this recipe.
3Roll out the pasta dough to obtain a sheet 3mm (1/10 in) thick, then cut it into sections matching the size of your baking dish. And what if they’re too big to handle? In that case, cut them into 3 – you can stick them back together in the dish later on. Put your sheets of pasta into salted boiling water for 2 minutes then immerse them in a bowl of iced water for a further 2 minutes. Put a tea towel on the worktop, lay the pasta sheets on top and gently dry them. Skip this stage if you’ve opted for dry sheets – simply put them straight into the dish, without cooking them.
4Give it some love, to make everything even more exquisite. Spread a thin layer of béchamel on the bottom. Cover this with pasta (as if you were spreading a miniature bedsheet). Mix the ragù with the rest of the bechamel and then fill the dish with a successives layers of pasta, ragù and, Parmigiano. Repeat this a maximum of 4 times, ending with Parmigiano on top.
5Put the dish into the oven for 25–30 minutes, initially at 160°C fan/180°C/350°F/GM 4, for the first 20 minutes, then at 140°C fan/160°C/325°F/GM 3 for the final 10 minutes. If you think that the top of the lasagne is browning too quickly, cover it with a sheet of aluminium foil.
All done! Leave to rest for at least 20 minutes. It is very important to allow the lasagne to sit, otherwise it will turn into a soup. After that, it’ll melt in the mouth and your kids will ask for an extra helping – mission accomplished!
A MINUTE TO SPARE?
It’s a good time to check up on the plants on your balcony (or in the house). Are they thirsty?
◁ A$AP GNOCCHI
Crunchy golden gnocchi
This is a typical Roman dish. Gnocchi means ‘pieces of dough’. There are more than 20 types of gnocchi, and just as many variations in the flours and shapes used. Don’t worry then that the ones here do not resemble the dumplings you are familiar with, as they all belong to the same happy family. Gnocchi is the frugal Italian way to use up all sorts of leftover dough (semolina, wheat, potato, polenta . . .).
PER 4 AMICI
250g (1½ cups) extra-fine semolina flour
1 litre (1qt) whole milk
200g (7oz) Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
110g (3¾oz) butter
2 egg yolks
1 pinch grated nutmeg
Salt QB
Pepper QB
1Heat the milk in a saucepan. As soon as it’s warm, add the salt, pepper and nutmeg. Once it begins to boil, gently pour in the semolina flour, whisking fast to avoid any lumps. Remove the saucepan from the heat and mix in 50g (1¾oz) of butter to get a smooth texture. Add 130g (4½oz) of Parmigiano and the egg yolks, beating vigorously with a wooden spoon.
2Once the dough is smooth, spread it on a baking tray, in a sheet 4–5cm (1½–2in) thick, maximum. Leave to cool – this is a good time to walk the dog or hang out your laundry.
3Once the dough has cooled, use any improvised pastry cutter with a diameter of around 10cm (it could be a glass or mug, a napkin holder . . .) and cut out as many circles as you can.
4Place the gnocchi side by side in a large baking dish. Melt the remaining butter in a saucepan and pour it over the gnocchi. Sprinkle all the remaining Parmigiano on top and put the gnocchi under the grill in a convection oven at 230°C fan/250°C/480°F/GM 9 for 15–20 minutes.
5Once the gnocchi are nicely golden brown, Gigi’s mother usually serves them on a large plate on the table so that everybody can help themselves. It’s up to you! For the record, she also puts a large sausage in the centre of the dish, which can only be eaten, if and only if, all the gnocchi are gone first. And as nobody has ever been able to finish this dish, the sausage is set aside for Sunday lunch. Manners maketh man.
A MINUTE TO SPARE?
This could be a good time to take out the rubbish. Don’t forget to take your keys, as locking yourself out just before your guests arrive is a bit awkward.
5 TIPS ON CHOOSING GOOD DRIED PASTA
We can imagine that you don’t always have time to make fresh pasta. So here are a few pointers on how to make the right decision on dried options, for a quick little pasta dish which everyone around the table will love.
1If you see ‘trafilata al bronzo’ written on a packet of pasta, this means it has been ‘bronze-cut’, or traditionally made. This gives the pasta a texture to ensure the sauce clings to it, a guaranteed winner.
2Check the origin of the wheat – it must come from Italy.
3If the instructions on the packet specify a cooking time of more than 10 minutes, that may demand patience but it’s a good sign nonetheless. The longer the pasta takes to cook, the better the quality. Any dried pasta that takes 2 minutes to cook is highly suspect.
4Good Italian pasta on sale abroad will undoubtedly cost a little more than local rivals due to transportation costs, but you will definitely notice the difference on the plate.
5Avoid dried egg pasta, even though it’s extremely common, and opt as often as you can for pasta made from 100 per cent semola di grano duro (durum wheat flour). That’s the ideal flour for authentic tagliatelle.
◁ PIZZOCCHERI VALTELLINESI
Buckwheat pizzoccheri, potatoes, Bitto and kale: the recipe that will turn you into a real Italian
PER 4 AMICI
500g (1lb 1½oz) pizzoccheri pasta (available in all Italian delis)
200g (7oz) kale
2 large potatoes
200g (7oz) butter
200g (7oz) Bitto cheese (you should find this in the same deli as the pizzoccheri but, if not, go for Comté)
5 or so sage leaves
1Setting up
Pay attention, you’re going to organize your kitchen like a real chef: wash the kale under a cold tap and then cut it into julienne strips. Set aside.
Peel the potatoes and dice them into 3cm (1in) cubes. Dice the cheese into 2cm (¾in) cubes. Set everything aside. Melt the butter in a saucepan with the sage leaves until it turns a hazelnut colour. Then, turn off the heat. There you go, the preparations are complete, bravo capo.
2Boil some salted water in a casserole dish or cast-iron pot, add the potatoes and cook them for 5 minutes. Add the pizzoccheri to the potatoes and cook for a further 7–8 minutes. Finally, add the kale and cook for a further 2 minutes. Drain the contents of the saucepan.
3Put a third of this mixture straight back into the hot casserole dish, then spread on a layer of Bitto and spoon over a third of the browned butter. Repeat a further 2 times with the remaining mix. Make sure the cheese gets really melty, naughty and oozy (oh my!). Mix everything together, place on the table and stand back as the kids dive for the dish. Splendido! This treat is a popular Sunday meal in wintertime in Valtellina, Lombardy. Cosy.
A MINUTE TO SPARE?
Look up the Gardens of Bomarzo in Viterbo, Italy. Actually, we’ll go even further, and tell you to book tickets to visit. Let us know how it went.
5 GOLDEN RULES FOR CHOOSING A GOOD PARMIGIANO
1A good Parmigiano has been matured for at least 12 months. The more mature, the better. Like wine (or, let’s face it, like people).
2It must bear the name 'Parmigiano Reggiano', which will be inscribed on the cheese’s rind. Parmigiano can only be produced exclusively between the provinces of Parma and Reggio Emilia.
3Choose a Parmigiano Reggiano DOP – that way, you can be sure that it’s a true Parmigiano as its denomination of origin is protected.
4Buy Parmigiano in a chunk rather than as shavings or grated in a packet, as these are often a mixture of different cheeses and especially rind. They tend to have less flavour.
5Can you see crystals in your Parmigiano? These are neither salt crystals nor diamonds, but they do indicate the passing of time – and that this cheese is molto buono!
◁ ORECCHIETTE AL POMODORO
Orecchiette with fresh tomatoes, basil and ricotta salata
PER 4 AMICI
500g (1lb 1½oz) orecchiette
450ml (scant 2 cups) fresh tomato sauce (you can also make your own using our recipe on this page – it will be even better that way)
1 bunch basil
150g (5½oz) dry ricotta (ricotta salata) (you will find this in an Italian deli – if not, buffalo mozzarella will do, but try the deli first)
Extra-virgin olive oil QB
1Heat the tomato sauce in a saucepan over a low heat. Cook the orecchiette in salted boiling water until they are al dente. Drain them roughly with a slotted spoon and put them into the saucepan with the tomato sauce. The secret is to finish the pasta in the sauce, stirring all the while so it absorbs all the flavour.
2Remove from the heat, add the basil leaves and a glug of the olive oil. Stir thoroughly and serve on a pretty plate in the middle of the table. At the last moment, grate the lovely ricotta atop.
All hail Santa Ricotta!
A MINUTE TO SPARE?
Empty the dishwasher. If it’s dirty and full, turn it on; it would be a shame to have to put all your washing up in the sink overnight as there’s no room.
◁ SPAGHETTONE AI RICCI DI MARE
Spaghettone with sea urchins, garlic and olive oil
We are feeling generous, so we are going to give you 2 recipes in 1. A typical Italian recipe for knocking up when you get back home from work: spaghettone aglio, olio, peperoncino, and its bouji seafood version: spaghettone aglio, olio, riccio di mare. Is your mouth watering? Ours too.
PER 4 AMICI
600g (1¼lb) spaghettone (following the recommendation of Charlotte, who is always hungry)
150g (5½oz) sea urchins, minimum (if you can’t find any, ask your fishmonger to order and clean them for you)
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 fresh chilli, finely chopped
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
Extra-virgin olive oil QB
1Put the pasta in a saucepan of salted boiling water and cook until al dente. Put a generous amount of olive oil in a large frying pan, along with the chilli and garlic, and brown them gently over a low heat for at least 6 minutes. Now you have 2 options, but whichever one you choose, be sure to keep all the oil. For real Italophiles, you can leave the chilli and garlic in the oil, or for newbies, you can sieve them out.
2Add the pasta and a ladleful of the cooking water into the frying pan, along with the flavoured oil, and heat for 1 minute. Stir briskly so the water evaporates and creates a good emulsion. Cut open the sea urchins (watch out for the spikes!) and remove the ‘tongues’ (gonads) using a teaspoon. Add them to the saucepan, along with the parsley. Now is not the time to top up your drink – just sit down and get stuck in – È pronto! If you leave out the sea urchins, you will still have quintessential Italian comfort food. THE ultimate homecoming dish.
A MINUTE TO SPARE?
Fill up a carafe with tap water and pop it in the fridge. That way, you won’t have the embarrassment of having only lukewarm water to offer your guests. It’s even a good idea when you’re on your own; you deserve the best.
◁ CANNELLONI DELLA NONNA JAJA RICOTTA E SPINACI
Cannelloni stuffed with ricotta and spinach
PER 4 AMICI
16 cannelloni tubes (they come in 1kg (2¼lb) packs – reckon on 4 tubes per person)
400g (14oz) fresh spinach (or frozen, which will work fine)
1 egg
60g (¼ cup) cow ricotta
150g (5½oz) Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
300g (1⅓ cups) Parmigiano fondue (see the wonderful recipe for a homemade version on this page)
1 pinch grated nutmeg
Olive oil QB
Salt QB
Pepper QB
1Put the cannelloni into a saucepan of salted boiling water for 3 minutes. Meanwhile, sauté the spinach in a saucepan with the olive oil. When it is cooked, chop it roughly with a knife.
2Mix the spinach in a bowl with 30g (⅓ cup) of Parmigiano, the ricotta, the egg, the nutmeg, and some salt and pepper. Drain the cannelloni, dry them quickly with kitchen paper and stuff them with the spinach mixture.
3Once all the tubes have been filled, carefully transfer them to a baking tray. Cover the cannelloni with the Parmigiano fondue, and spoil them even more by sprinkling grated Parmigiano on top and cook them for 15–20 minutes in an oven at 160°C fan/180°C/350°F/GM 4.
4Serve 4 cannelloni on each plate – and now you’re in for a treat. You'll never be able to take anybody seriously again who doesn't like spinach. Enjoy this dish like a true Italian, cutting and eating each cannelloni from one side to the other. That way you won’t burn your mouth. See how we look out for you?
A MINUTE TO SPARE?
Find out which streaming platform is offering the film Il Sorpasso (The Easy Life) and make a vow to watch it very soon – it’s a masterpiece.
